The Landscape Year Here Starts in October, Not April
Why the cool season carries the productive landscape work in Laredo, a month-by-month schedule from October to March, and why summer pruning backfires.
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A plan for the whole lot, drawn around the sun angles, the caliche depth, and how much of the ground is going to be irrigated at all.
A landscape design for a Laredo lot answers three questions that decide almost everything else: where the afternoon sun lands between two and seven, how far down a spade goes before it stops, and how much of the yard is going to be irrigated at all. That last one is a budget question as much as a design question, because irrigated ground costs money for as long as it exists, and a design that assumes unlimited sprinkler time is a design that will look right for one season and tired after that. The usual shape of a plan here is a lawn area near the house sized to what the household walks on, a much larger planted area on drip, shade placed where it does the most work, and hard surface where nothing was ever going to thrive anyway. A few things about the build are one-way. Sleeving under a patio or a driveway has to exist before the concrete does, and a mainline crossing under hard surface is cheap to lay and expensive to retrofit. Everything downstream of those decisions can be phased; those cannot.
Autumn through early spring, and it is not a small preference. Laredo averages 74.2 days a year at or above 100F and a July daily high near 100.3F, so a plant installed in June spends its establishment period in conditions that would stress a mature specimen. Planting between October and March gives roots several mild months to get out into the surrounding soil before the first real heat arrives, which cuts both the water the plant needs and the losses. Hardscape and irrigation can go in any time of year.
Less than most lots start with, and the reason is arithmetic rather than taste. Turf is the single largest water demand in a residential landscape, and in a city averaging 19.68 inches of rain a year with a July daily high near 100.3F, that demand runs hard from May to September. A lawn sized to what the household genuinely uses, a play area or a dog run, is worth what it drinks. A lawn covering the entire lot is not. The rest converts well to planted beds on drip irrigation, which put water at the root zone and lose very little of it on the way.
No, but a planted bed with no irrigation at all needs hand watering through its first two summers, which in practice means somebody standing there with a hose several evenings a week for two years. Most designs here use drip in the beds because it meters water onto the soil at the root zone at a rate the ground can absorb, losing far less to evaporation and wind than spray does in this heat. A lawn area needs conventional spray or rotary heads, and that portion is where most of the water goes.
It sets how far roots can go, and therefore how large a plant the lot will carry without help. Soils across the Rio Grande Plain hold secondary calcium carbonate at shallow depth, and the USDA description of the Brennan series, established in the Laredo area in 1906, puts that layer within reach of an ordinary garden spade on much of this ground. Where it sits high, a large shade tree either gets an excavation that breaks past the layer or gets swapped for something smaller. Guessing about it is what produces the ten-year-old tree that suddenly leans in a windstorm.
The excavation, almost every time. Ground that takes a trencher easily in one corner of a lot can need a rock saw or a breaker a few paces away, and nothing else on the job moves the calendar like that does. After excavation the swing factors are material lead times on paving and plant stock, and whether the build is being done in one pass or phased as budget allows. A quote that carries a stated allowance for rock and a change-order process is describing that uncertainty rather than pretending it away.
Often, and it usually pays to try. Converting existing spray zones in planted beds to drip is a common retrofit and does not require repiping the whole system. Where the existing layout has one valve feeding both lawn and beds, that zone generally needs splitting, since the two have water demands that are not close to each other. What that work involves is covered on the irrigation page.
Related Reading
Why the cool season carries the productive landscape work in Laredo, a month-by-month schedule from October to March, and why summer pruning backfires.
Other Work
Landscape work here comes in a natural order, because on this ground you cannot reverse the sequence later. Grading and drainage first, then irrigation mainlines and sleeving under anything that will be paved, then hardscape, then soil preparation and planting. Anything installed out of order gets dug up by the next trade, so it is worth pricing the whole sequence even when the build is phased.
A yard built to look deliberate on a fraction of the water, using plants that were growing on this ground long before anybody irrigated it
Sprinkler and drip installation, zone splitting, controller programming and leak repair, designed for a climate that takes back most of what a spray head throws
Patios, walkways, seating walls and shade structures, built for a climate where usable outdoor space means shaded outdoor space
New lawns, patchy lawn replacement and turf reduction, with a grass choice made for a long hot summer and the water the lawn will realistically get
Ring (956) 477-4933, or send the quote form. Quotes are free and the price belongs to the contractor.